Birds and Reflections Through Time: Rediscovering Bakers Bridge in the San Juans of Southwestern Colorado
Bakers Bridge, located in the San Juan mountains just north of Durango along the Animas River, is steeped in history and local legend. The site is named after Captain Charles H. Baker, who discovered gold in the region in 1860 and returned with a party of prospectors in 1861 to mine along the river. Baker's group built the first log bridge across the Animas River, roughly 300 feet north of the present bridge, and established a mining camp called Animas City.
The harsh winters, challenges with hostile Ute groups, and disappointing gold yields forced Baker’s group to leave after one year, though their bridge would remain in use for over fifty years. Captain Baker himself returned after serving as a Confederate officer in the Civil War and tragically lost his life during another attempted expedition in the region. Over time, the area became locally celebrated—not only for its place in mining history but also as a scenic landmark and a rite of passage for Durango youth, who often swam and cliff-jumped here in summer.
The current bridge, built in the 1930s, sits near a historical marker that honors Baker and the area’s early gold rush beginnings. Bakers Bridge also gained fame as a film location in "Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid," further cementing its place in Colorado lore. Today, it is remembered both for its history and for its spectacular natural beauty—an enduring special spot where the Animas River meets the wild heart of the mountains.
During a recent stay in the Durango and San Juan Mountains area, the search for new birding hotspots and scenic nature sites led to the discovery of Bakers Bridge. As someone who collects old birding books and guides, used bookstores are always a highlight of any trip. Blue Ridge Booksellers on Main Street in Blue Ridge, Georgia, is a particular favorite, and it was there that "A Guide to Bird Finding [West of the Mississippi]" was found—a compact but comprehensive volume published by Oxford University Press in 1953, authored by Olin Sewall Pettingill, Jr., with illustrations by Miksch Sutton. The book’s chapters are organized by the then 22 states west of the Mississippi River. Pettingill explains his criteria for selecting birding locations: "Places for finding birds are chosen with the over-all purpose of showing (1) species of birds; (2) important bird concentrations such as breeding colonies and wintering aggregations; (3) representative types of bird habitats, from ocean beaches and deserts to mountaintops; and (4) the widest possible diversity of birds existing in the vicinity of large metropolitan areas and leading vacation centers." Turning to the Colorado chapter, and specifically page 143, guided the search toward the Durango region and ultimately led to my discovering Bakers Bridge as a birding destination.
He described the Durango area in southwestern Colorado as a good starting point for a "profitable bird finding jaunt" in the Animas River Valley. According to the book, Baker's Bridge is approximately 14 miles north of Durango, with a turnoff to a gravel road (now County Road 250) about a half mile to the bridge crossing the Animas River. The elevation at this spot is 7,000 feet, where the river is surrounded by the high, rugged San Juan mountains. Pettingill notes that the area had been "little explored ornithologically" at the time. He describes cottonwoods and clumps of willows along the riverbanks, and on the hillsides, pygmy forests of scrub oak, pinyon pine, ponderosa pine, and Douglas fir.
According to Pettingill, bird species to be found at Bakers Bridge include Steller’s Jay, Scrub Jay, Pinyon Jay, Western Wood-Pewee, Broad-tailed Hummingbird, Black-capped Chickadee, Lesser Goldfinch, Virginia’s Warbler, House Finch, Lark Sparrow, Sparrow Hawk (now commonly known as American Kestrel), Cassin’s Kingbird, Lewis’s Woodpecker, and Bushtit. The Steller’s Jay, in particular, inspired special hopes for a photography on this trip.
My journal notes capture the essence of those mornings at Bakers Bridge, blending adventure, solitude, and sensory detail into each visit. The first scouting trip involved walking over large boulders, exploring the cliffs, and following a trail down to the river bottom. On the second visit, a quiet Sunday morning, the place was empty and felt like a private sanctuary. Perched on a rock ledge with an eye-level view into the mid and upper sections of pine trees, this became the ideal "sit spot"—the vantage point to watch for birds moving through branches, while soaking in the extraordinary landscape.
The atmosphere that day was defined by pure white clouds against a breathtaking blue sky, with temperatures in the low 60s. It was chilly whenever the sun ducked behind the clouds, and the turquoise-blue river wound downstream surrounded by smooth rocky cliffs. Even though Bakers Bridge isn’t technically a slot canyon, it took on that feeling in this secluded moment. Rainstorms from the previous night made the river more animated and lively, rushing and roaring through the valley. In quieter pools left behind, the still water mirrored the vivid sky and drifting clouds, adding to the sense of calm and clarity in this slice of wild Colorado.
Here are my birding observations from Bakers Bridge, capturing the subtle magic of observation and attention in a pristine mountain setting. By adapting to the quiet and sitting still, senses become attuned to the landscape, making every movement and sound matter. Shadows of birds flying are caught reflected on the sheer cliffs or in the still pools of water below. Quick, sharp chirps betray the presence of birds (mostly Audubon’s Warbler, the western version of the Yellow-rumped Warbler) flitting energetically through the brush, confirming that the place is alive even when little can be seen at first glance.
The clear call of Black-billed Magpies rings out, distinctive above the gentle rush of the river. Movement is spotted deep within the dense pine branches, especially near the trunk where needles are thick and shadows play tricks on the eye. Each bird’s presence feels amplified by the serenity and remoteness of Bakers Bridge, making every encounter vivid and memorable. This series of moments captures the essence of slow, attentive birding in a wild mountain setting.
My first sighting at Bakers Bridge was of a Northern Flicker, hopping along the cliffside on the far side of the river, weaving in and out of crevices in search of food. In southwestern Colorado, Northern Flickers primarily eat ants and beetles foraged from the ground, using their long, curved bills to hammer at the soil and their barbed tongues to lap up insects, a behavior that makes them unique among their woodpecker relatives. This ground-foraging habit has earned them the nickname "anteaters of the bird world," but they also eat a wide variety of other insects, seeds, fruits, and berries, especially in colder months when insects are less available.
Here at Bakers Bridge, the Northern Flicker soon became a frequent sight—flying back and forth across the river, perching on treetops, foraging at the river bottom, and returning to the cliffs. Each sighting was a reminder of how this one bird weaves through every layer of the landscape.
Steller’s Jays have a strong, persistent presence at Bakers Bridge. During both recent and past visits, flocks of five or more often appeared, flying downstream or across the river, congregating in the dense pine trees on the steep banks. The Steller's Jay is highly vocal and social, producing a diversity of calls for different situations. Common vocalizations include the harsh, scolding "shook shook shook" or "shaar" call given in bursts, along with guttural growls, nasal "wek" or "wah" sounds, and occasional mimicked hawk screams. Their loud, repeated calls are often heard year-round, whether in flight, perched, or engaged in aggressive interactions.
Diet-wise, the Steller’s Jay is omnivorous and opportunistic. About two-thirds of its diet is vegetable matter, with the remaining third animal matter. In fall and winter, the birds rely heavily on pine seeds, acorns, nuts, and seeds, while in summer they add berries, wild fruits, insects, and sometimes even small animals to their menu. Photographically, a long 400mm prime lens with a 1.4x extender was ideal for capturing them in their environment, among the pine canopy on the steep, forested riverbank—a rewarding challenge in both sighting and photographing these bold, clever birds.
During this visit, the opportunity arose to photograph a Woodhouse's Scrub-Jay as it perched atop a tree at the river bottom. The Woodhouse's Scrub-Jay stands out as a crestless, dusty blue and gray bird that is common in the pinyon-juniper and oak woodlands of southwestern Colorado. These birds are non-migratory and reside year-round in the region, making them a familiar species in the "four corners" states.
Rising from the perch above Bakers Bridge, a meander down through the rocks and hints of a trail led into the river bottom, where pools lay exposed and the vegetation thickened. It was here, amid willow and alder thickets, that the unmistakable sound of a Wilson's Warbler was picked up, punctuating the morning with its distinctive “chip” call. Occasionally, this small bird would dart out from cover, its yellow plumage flashing against the greenery.
In southwestern Colorado during September, encountering the Wilson’s Warbler is a seasonal treat—the species is passing through on its migratory route to wintering grounds in Mexico and Central America. Migrants stop briefly to rest and feed in varied, brushy habitats, and are especially common in thickets near riparian zones just like this. These warblers are constantly in motion, flicking their wings and wagging their slim tails as they forage low in the understory, hovering and picking insects from leaves and branches. Spotting one here in mid-migration, actively feeding and refueling, is a vivid reminder of the connections between local habitats and the grand sweep of bird migrations each fall.
Here is the bird list for the day’s outing at Bakers Bridge:
Audubon's Warbler (Yellow-rumped Warbler)
Northern Flicker
Steller's Jay
Woodhouse Scrub Jay
Black-billed Magpie
House Finch
Pine Siskin
American Crow
Wilson's Warbler
Clay-colored Sparrow
Chipping Sparrow
Lesser Goldfinch
Western Bluebird
Eurasian Collared Dove
Orange-crowned Warbler
Vesper Sparrow
Common Raven
Pygmy Nuthatch
This diverse list showcases the rich avian life found in the unique riparian and mountainous habitat of Bakers Bridge and highlights the productive birding possible in the San Juan Mountains region.
The experience at Bakers Bridge truly delivered on the promises made in Pettingill’s 1953 birding guide. The landscape, the birds, and the sense of discovery all echoed the spirit and detail of that classic handbook—it did not disappoint. There was a distinct sense of joy and inspiration in following the footsteps of birders from over seventy years ago, witnessing firsthand the living habitats and species described so long ago.